The Journey North
I don’t get the chance to travel much, but a few years ago, while discussing summer vacation plans with my wife, I suggested a trip to Maine. She’s not fond of flying, and since we had relatives to visit in New Jersey along the way, we decided to drive. I took a few weeks off from teaching, and we planned a route that included a short visit with my sister before heading up to Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park. Part of the reason she agreed was that my daughter and her family decided to join us—but she also knew my ulterior motive. I’ll admit it: the real reason I wanted to go to Maine was to paint!
We decided to go in mid-August, and the weather was perfect—though the drive was far from it. We packed my wagon the night before and left in the afternoon after my KSU classes. As expected, the trip to New Jersey was arduous. The first afternoon’s drive from Atlanta to a hotel in Charlotte was slow and frustrating. The next day, we made our way through the Carolinas, Virginia, and the chaos of D.C. before finally stopping in Toms River, NJ, to visit my sister. Back on the road, we navigated through New York City, then up I-95 to I-85, passing through Connecticut and Massachusetts before finally reaching Maine. That night, we stayed in Freeport, just north of Portland, visited the L.L.Bean headquarters, and enjoyed our first lobster dinner.
Along Highway 1, Exploring Mount Desert Island
The next morning, we took Highway 1 North toward Mount Desert Island, way up in the northern tip of the state. Honestly, as soon as we crossed the state line, things became more interesting. August in Atlanta is uncomfortably hot, but Maine felt like a different world—cool temperatures and everything in full bloom.
Since we were in no hurry, we stopped in several small towns along the way, most notably Rockport, with its beautiful harbor full of boats. We then backtracked a bit to the charming town of Port Clyde—home of the Wyeths. It’s also the departure point for the ferry to Monhegan Island, another favorite Wyeth retreat. After spending a few hours exploring, we set off for the final stretch up the coast to the island.
There was so much to see—endless islands, rocky shorelines, and stunning coastal scenery. A word about the architecture: fantastic. Simple saltbox houses, predominantly white, with the occasional red barn or shed. The homes looked like they were built by boatbuilders—clean lines with the occasional flourish of decorative woodwork. The gardens in this area were exceptional, bursting with color at the height of summer bloom.
The final stretch of road follows Penobscot Bay, winding through a steep gorge, over the bridge, past Bangor, and finally south across the lone bridge in Trenton to Mount Desert Island. The island is about 15 miles long and 8 miles wide.
At its northeastern point lies the famous town of Bar Harbor, built on the side of a hill that slopes down to a picturesque harbor, surrounded by small islands and towering cliffs to the south. This is the primary destination for most visitors, and while it’s a wonderful place, it’s also crowded. Cruise ships dock here, unloading hordes of tourists who flood the town’s shops and restaurants—too busy for me.
Acadia National Park is the island’s biggest draw—it’s the second most visited national park in the U.S., and it’s easy to see why. The park is vast and diverse, offering stunning landscapes and endless opportunities for exploration. It’s a hiker’s paradise, with plenty to see and do.
The island is almost split in two vertically by Somes Sound, a deep, fjord-like inlet that extends far into the interior. On the east side lies the upscale town of Northeast Harbor, while on the west side is Southwest Harbor. Finally, near the island’s southern tip, you’ll find Bass Harbor.
We arrived at our rental, located about a mile north of Bass Harbor, and soon after, my daughter, her husband, and the grandkids arrived following their flight to Portland. This was their second trip to Maine, and we were fortunate to have my son-in-law’s knowledge of the area to guide us.
The next day, he showed us around. We set out early to avoid the crowds, starting with a visit to the famous Bass Harbor Lighthouse. Then, we hiked the Seawall section of the island, where pine forests meet a rugged, rocky beach. Finally, we drove up the island to Bar Harbor for a quick look at the town and some lunch. On the way, we passed a beautiful viewpoint in Southwest Harbor, which became the subject of my first painting.
Let’s Get Painting!
That first evening, I went out for a discovery walk—and there was no need to go far. At the end of the driveway, right across the street, was a picturesque scene: a shed surrounded by scattered odds and ends—old wood, barrels, flowers. Even the junk looks good in Maine! Then, I made my way to Bass Harbor—the honey hole! Lobster boats, wonderful docks, charming houses… and the sea beyond. Two sides: Tremont and Bernard.
The next day, I was up at dawn and headed over to paint the view of Southwest Harbor. I worked on a 12×16 for about four hours, feeling a bit rusty after several days of traveling. The following morning, I decided to capture that shed across the street in the morning light. My grandson even came out and helped me add some highlights. Later in the day, I took my wagon down to the Tremont side of the harbor—a quiet, perfect spot with docked lobster boats and a panoramic view of the mountains beyond. A winding road leads up a hill past a large, two-story brick factory building, then past a few saltbox houses to a high stretch along the harbor with incredible westward views. There’s also a ferry here that takes passengers to Swan’s Island and Isle au Haut in Penobscot Bay. I doubled back and set up in front of a red house with the harbor and park in the background, working on a small 9×12.
As I was finishing up, an SUV slowed down, and the couple inside took a look. “How much?” they asked. Well, as is my practice—sell whenever you can! We came to an agreement and arranged to meet the next day in Bar Harbor with the finished and framed painting. It was my only sale of the trip, but it at least covered gas and lobster! That afternoon, I started a painting of the sunset from the bluff above the harbor. It was a piece I should have left alone, but back at home, I proceeded to retouch it to death—a lesson I never seem to learn. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to try again on my next trip.
Bar Harbor and Cadillac Mountain
Early the next morning, we headed to Bar Harbor for another tourist excursion—a drive of about half an hour. We passed through the small town of Somes, crossing a bridge that links the road into Bar Harbor. Not far from here is Cadillac Mountain, the highest seaside mountain in North America. It’s a major tourist attraction, though I didn’t visit it on either of my trips. Perhaps next time—the view is supposed to be spectacular. While in Bar Harbor, as my family browsed t-shirt shops and overpriced restaurants, I took a moment to deliver the previous day’s painting. We also spent some time crossing over to Bar Island at low tide—another classic tourist ritual. It was a busy day that also included a tour of the gardens above Northeast Harbor.
The Lobster Boat and the Studio Piece
The days blended together, but my next opportunity to get out and paint led to an interesting find—one of the lobster boats up on shore, being repaired and tied to the dock in Bass Harbor. I quickly dashed out a small 9×12 of this beautiful red boat. Although I added a bit too much detail, it became the subject of a much larger painting I later completed in the studio. All the while, I had been taking photos, which I ended up using for small drawings and some of the studio work.
The next day, I was on my own, but the weather took a turn, and I found myself on the Bernard side of the harbor in the rain. Nonetheless, this area serves as the working hub for the fleet of lobster boats and features the town dock—a great spot to catch all the action as they unload their precious lobster catches. I set up with an 8×16 canvas and started crafting a view of the boats and the opposite side of the harbor.
I was caught in cool fog and eventually a heavy downpour, but I still managed to produce a solid painting, which I later used as the basis for a much larger piece back in Atlanta. This was the area I decided to explore more thoroughly on my second trip.
On this side of the harbor is the famous Thurston’s Lobster Pound. A great spot with a great view and some of the best food on the Island. Every night we would travel out under the guidance of my Son-in-law Bo and taste all there was to eat. Lobster was my prime directive and it’s hard to mess up but Thurston’s did it the best.
A Hike to Jordan Pond
The next day, our family’s objective was the famous Jordan Pond, so I put away my paints and enjoyed a day of hiking up the “Bubble” with the boys, while the girls headed back to the lodge to join the crowd for a famous popover. I was skeptical at first, but was pleasantly surprised by this gourmet treat—it tasted wonderful after the strenuous, yet fun, hike.
Painting Along the Cliffs
As with all good things, time was short, and with just one day left, I ventured out to Acadia to paint along the cliffs on the eastern shore of the island. Following Bo’s advice, I was up at five and parked in one of the lots on the Loop Road before six in the morning. I was so glad I followed his advice, as the park fills up with tourists quickly, and a parking spot is like gold.
This high point on the very edge of the continent is spectacular. When I arrived, the fog still shrouded the view, but within the hour, it burned off, revealing crashing waves a hundred feet below on granite cliffs. Add in the black-and-white Guillemots and a visiting lobster boat pulling up its traps, and it was textbook Maine.
I worked on a vertical 9×12, which was more of a reaction to the scene than a planned painting. It was a much better spot to simply sit and absorb the experience—something I often overlook when I’m busy painting. After a few hours, I set up again, this time looking northwest toward Bar Harbor, and did an 8×16 view.
This was the last painting of the trip, and I promised myself I would return—a promise I’ve since kept.
Heading Home
The trip back was uneventful and much quicker. We took the western route to avoid NYC and stayed off I-95—a good idea if you’re planning a trip. When I got back, I couldn’t stop talking about the experience. My classes were filled with demos from the photos, and my studio was full of larger versions of my plein air work.
All in all, just go if you can. Don’t forget your box and a few frames, and also remember—not every moment needs to be spent painting. Just enjoy the journey.